Monday, October 3, 2022

A "Bucket List" Trip to Italy For My Friend

I am re-introducing this blog because now that travel is back to normal, I wanted to share what a successful adventure can look like. This trip occurred in 2018, prior to the pandemic. 

This is a brief account of a one month adventure in Italy by a good friend and her friends, and I had the pleasure of escorting the small group. It was a bucket list trip for my friend, so I really wanted it to be extra special. She wanted to share her adventure with some friends and relatives, whom she invited. Of course, I can't include every activity we enjoyed but I will highlight, often in the words of my friends, their favorite experiences.
The trip started at an apartment in a small non touristy village in the Lake Como area which was the base for the month. This provided my friend lots of room, quiet, privacy, a kitchen, balconies, and other amenities.

Some of the areas we visited during the month included the following:
Lake Como, and a number of surrounding communities; the spectacular Dolomites, a must-see; beautiful Lake Garda; the Barolo wine country area in Alba, Piemonte;  the Italian Riviera, including Cinque Terre, Rapallo, and Portofino; the Cities of Bologna, a food lover's paradise Venice, Verona, and Milan. We did a lot but at a leisurely pace, never rushing, and making sure we took it all in. Each of these areas had its own unique flavor, and all were beautiful in their own ways: topography, cuisine, wines, traditions, and history, but they were all Italian!!

Transportation was primarily by mini van driven by me throughout northern Italy. Boats were used for transport on Lake Como to visit lake villages; and trains were used to visit Milan and between Rapallo and Cinque Terre towns. Accommodations outside of our Lake Como base included hotels and a bed and breakfast on a vineyard property in Piemonte.

We ate only in local non-tourist restaurants that I knew personally, and some others recommended by those whose judgement I trust. We looked for small villages and "off the beaten path" sights. My experience has taught me to always ask local residents where they and their families eat. As everyone knows, good food and wine for a good value, are very important to Italians. I made a point to acquaint my friends with the local area around the apartment, and the operators of restaurants and shops in our base village of Montano Lucino. Staying in an area for a month allowed us to live somewhat like the locals, and be recognized when we patronized shops and restaurants.

Here are some observations expressed by my friends: "best pizza and pasta I have ever eaten"; "nicest people I ever met";  "most interesting and beautiful landscapes and vistas ever!"; "the only way to visit, with someone who knows the language, the geography, the restaurants, sites, etc., and who handles the driving."

We agreed to having lots of free time and so we did not over plan activities. This allowed us to make some travel choices after we arrived, particularly for day trips. There was no need for guides because generally I served that purpose for us except for specialized certain sites for which we hired local experts.
Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I am including a number of photos taken on the trip.

In closing I am including a quote from a note my friend sent me after we returned home: " You so love Italy, and now I do too." Italy is infectious!!

Grazie Mille Maureen Higgins, my friend.

Lake Como

The Dolomites

The Dolomites

Clients at the Dolomites
My barber, Giancarlo, in Montano Lucino, Como
Vilage of Varenna on Lake Como
Paolo Manzone,  our host and winemaker in Piemonte
Clients on Gondola ride in Venice
Dining, what else, in Como!
wine tasting at our B&B in Piemonte
enice
Our B&B, Vineyard and winery in Piemonte
The Roman style arena in Verona

The Balcony of Romeo and Juliett in Verona
Clients outside of historical arena in Verona
Grand Canal in Venice from our hotel


Rapallo on the Italian Riviera, our view from hotel



Wednesday, March 23, 2022

Puglia

(A sampling of its culture)


The vibrant culture and rich history that Puglia provides when you visit is unique.  Based on the heel of the Italian ‘boot’, it is an area that is often overlooked for more popular tourist regions. However, it should not be missed! Whether you’re planning a family holiday in Puglia or a getaway for two, there is something for everyone here. From the incredible wine and delicacies to the spectacular landscape, where green fields contrast with the blue sea, Puglia has some of the most incredible views that Italy can provide!  The climate is typically Mediterranean with hot, dry and sunny summers and mild and rainy winters.  Puglia is among the hottest and driest regions of Italy in summer with temperatures sometimes reaching up to and above 104 °F in Lecce and Foggia.

If you’re planning on visiting Puglia, here are a few facts about the region and its culture. From the correct pronunciation to insight into some of their most famous architecture, here are some facts that you may not know.

Puglia is pronounced "Pulya"

Agriculture plays a prominent economic role in Puglia. It is a mainly intensive and modern agriculture that allows the region to be among the largest in Italy,  of many products including


Wines

Awning vineyard in the countryside of Barletta

Vineyards cover a  large area of Apulia, which is first among Italian grape-growing regions.  There are 4 government recognized wines produced here:

  • Castel del Monte Bombino Nero
  • Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva
  • Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva
  • Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale

Olive Oil

Olive extravergine oil Terre Tarentine
Olive trees near Modugno

There are an estimated 50 to 60 million olive trees in Puglia, and the region accounts for 40% of Italy's olive oil production. There are four specific Protected Designation of Origin (government designation) covering the whole region. 


Engineering

The Romans Completed Via Appia in Puglia in 190 BC.

The Greeks were eventually defeated by the Roman civilization that would go on to define Italian culture as a whole, and one of its greatest achievements, Via Appia, or,  "Appia Way."

One of the Roman’s most notable and durable engineering creations, was the invention of road networks, and Via Appia was one of the first and most famous road systems they ever created. The Appia Way project, which was started in Rome in 312 BC, connects Rome to the town of Brindisi, located on the south-east coast of Italy in the region now known as Puglia. In this period of Roman history, Brindisi was one of the Empire’s most important cities, a strategic port that was used to reach other powers such as Greece, Egypt and the Eastern Mediterranean. This engineering masterpiece can still be walked, forming a wide pathway through the history of the country and marked by a Roman column deep in the heart of Puglia. Think about this: Can we find any roads in the USA, even close to the age of the Appia Way, that are still in use?

Coastline

Wherever your location in Puglia, a nice beach is always nearby. With amazing crystal clear waters and a perfect warm dry climate on Puglia’s Adriatic and Ionian Coasts, the beaches are definitely worth the trip! There are lots of beaches from which to choose.



The Trulli are ancient huts unique to the region.

The rich farming heritage of Puglia is prevalent in the landscape, with the iconic white Trulli dotted all around. These are stone dwellings which date back to the Middle Ages, and were once used as homes for peasant farmers, among others. Alberobello, a UNESCO site, is one of the best places to experience these, with streets lined by these unique dwellings! Many of the huts are available for rent as tourist accommodations

A street with trulli in Alberobello, Puglia

Saturday, March 5, 2022

Italian Culture, Sicily

Blogger and others: Future articles here will venture into a focus on Italian culture from many perspectives and will include many topics that provide examples of our culture, including food, drink, art, architecture, history, regionalism, etc.


I have chosen Sicilia for the first article, as an example of regionalism and diversity. Italy is a unique country in many ways, but especially because it is a nation of diverse regions and traditions. Every Italian region is a mini country with its own history. In fact Italy did not become a unified republic until 1861, after California achieved statehood in 1850. Sicily is the epitome of a melting pot of influences due to its history of invaders, wanting to control such a strategic location, Obviously, the various ethnic groups which occupied Sicily left their imprints in the architecture, cuisine including dolce. 


I think if you haven't yet visited Sicily, you will want to go. There are many reasons to like this island. The cuisine is remarkable with influences over centuries from Spain, France, Greece and North Africa. The blending of the various herbs, spices, styles, etc. provide for the most distinctive cuisine in all of Italy. Of course there are many other reasons to visit this island. There are beautiful and historical vistas along the miles and miles of coastline. The climate is the mildest in Italy mainly due to its location near North Africa. The wines have come into their own and there are beautiful wineries to visit. 

There are many Greek ruins in Sicily, some of which are in better condition than those in Greece. There is, of course, the most famous of volcanoes, Mt. Etna, just north of Catania near Taormina, one of the most visited areas of Sicily. Taormina sits high above the Ionian Sea with breathtaking views of the coastline.

There are fascinating cities to visit, Palermo, Catania, Messina, Siracusa, Agrigento, to name a few. There are very historical and well-preserved towns such as Modica, Noto, Taormina, Cefalu, Enna, and many more. The people of Sicily are warm and friendly. They love that you love their island! Many of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in Italy are in Sicily.


In summary, Sicily is just one of the unique regions in Italy. I believe that the best way to understand and enjoy Italy’s diverse culture, is to embed yourself in it, and live like an Italian.



Friday, January 21, 2022

Regione della Toscana

Regione della Toscana (Tuscany)

Tuscany is everything that is representative of Etruscan and Medieval Italy! Every hill town and walled city has amazing history. The walls and hilltop locations are reminders of how Italy was before Italy was unified. Each area of Italy had its own government, army and institutions. There were natural enemies which required cities to construct walls and towers. Cities were constructed on hills to make them easier to defend. Today the "rivalries" are about cuisines, wines, traditions, and re-enactments of historic battles. These modern times are about festivities, parades and honors.

There are so many things to see and do that it is difficult to mention all of the cities and towns, and their highlights.  I can mention a few of the most popular, but I always recommend spending enough time in Tuscany to "wander" around and find your own favorites. In fact, don't be afraid to get a little lost and off the beaten path. Every turn has its own charm. A week is good but you will want to spend even more time, or return soon.

These are some of my favorites which I have visited many times because there is so much to see and do and eat and drink!
Cortona: Lots of history, Etruscan influences, fantastic views, great trattorie, enoteche, mercati, etc. You can roam the streets and alleyways for hours.
Arezzo: A fully functioning working city, two cities really, modern and commercial outside the walls and lots of history, art, and architecture inside the walls. Arezzo also has great restaurants and shops. It is also the gold center of Italy.
Montepulciano, Pienza and Montalcino: I put these together because they are a perfect threesome for a day/evening trip. First the wines in Montepulciano: Vino Nobile and Rosso Montepulciano, are consistently great wines, and the wines in Montalcino: Brunello and Rosso Montalcino, are excellent wines as well. Pienza, designed as the perfect plan for a city by Pope Pio, whose name it bears,  is one main street with side streets and alleys opening up to great vistas of rolling hillsides and valleys. Pienza is known for its cheeses, and meats. 
Siena: Second in size only to Florence, it is a remarkable but it is a large spread out city with lots of history, and home to world famous Palio, which is a horse race held in the main piazza twice in the Summer. Every "neighborhood" is represented in the race sporting their traditional colors. It is a remarkable thing to watch particularly forom the vantage point of a hotel on the square.
San Gimignano: Built to defend itself at all times, the city once boasted 20+ towers. There are seven remaining and one can be climbed to the top for spectacular views. Great shops, restaurants, also present here.

There are so many more to see, including, of course, Firenze.  Fiesole, San Sepolcro, Anghiari, Luca, Pisa, Viareggio and Follonica, on the coast, Montecatini Terme, Montecatini Alto, and so many more, deserve a visit.
My advice is to get lost and the road will take you to wonderful places and you will meet warm, friendly people proud of their towns, their food and their wines.
Enjoy it all!!



The Bell Ringer of Montepulciano





The famous towers of San Gimignano

Our favorite agriturismo in Tuscany




                                         

Sunday, January 3, 2021

FELICE ANNO NUOVO, AUGURI


Italy, 2021,22: Buon Anno Amici 


Happy New Year to everyone. I hope it is a great year.  Think about including a trip to Italy in your plans for Autumn 2021 or 2022. Perhaps a celebration of a special birthday or anniversary or wedding, is in your plans. Maybe you simply want to get away after  enduring the pandemic of 2020. Why not have the "party" in Italy. You will never forget it!!

To help you consider a trip to Italy in the near future, I thought that instead of describing an Italian region or city, I would pass on this article from the Huffington Post published on December 28, 2013. It was written by Lisa Miller. 
I think that it is right on the money as it points out some of the less obvious reasons for visiting Italy. It goes beyond the food, the wine and the history.  Those of you who have traveled to Italy will appreciate this article because you have experienced these things first hand.

Here is the article:

If you've spent time in Italy you know that life in Italy and life in America are very different. While both cultures have their pros and cons, we think Americans can learn a lot from the way Italians live.
Traditionally, Italians have an easy-going and positive outlook on how to go about daily life. Italians live "la vita bella" (the beautiful life). But the beautiful life doesn't mean the luxurious life -- it means a relaxed, family-centered  lifestyle.
Check out seven lessons Americans can learn from Italians below.
1. Eat slowly, locally and with others.
There's really no such thing as Italian fast food.  (There is street food which is excellent). Italy is all about "slow food." Dinners are unhurried and eaten around a table with one's family.  In Italy, food is natural, authentic and sourced locally.
2. Drink a little bit, but not too much.
Italians love their vino. But they don't overdo it. Here in America, there's a culture of binge-drinking. In Italy, a bottle of wine is shared among friends or around the dinner table.  Italians like to drink, but they know how to keep it classy.
3. You should indulge a little every now and then... perché no??
There are so many delicious treats in Italy -- rich gelato, mouth-watering pastries, decadent chocolates. Much like the philosophy on drinking, Italian culture has a "perché no?" take on treats. "Perché no?" translates to "why not?" The idea is to treat yourself by having a little bit of something tasty (because, why not?) 
4. Stop hurrying, start relaxing.
Life is less hurried in Italy. People don't rush around with to-go cups of coffee, but rather sip their espresso at the "bar" (aka coffee shop). Meals tend to linger, whether they be at restaurants or at home. Pedestrians tend to meander.  Many Italians take a siesta of sorts -- a break during the day, from 1 p.m. - 3 p.m., to eat lunch and relax.
5. Having family nearby is the best thing ever.
Families in Italy tend to stay in the same area, rather than moving around. Grandparents often care for grandchildren, siblings remain close and extended families are huge and welcoming.  Having family nearby is deeply valued in Italy. Having nonna(grandma), aunts, uncles and cousins drop by for dinner during the week or having a weekly extended family meal every Sunday is common and brings everyone together.
6. Gather and spend time outdoors.
Part of the great communal feel of Italy comes from the fact that people tend to congregate outdoors. Friends will meet up at a piazza and hang out there, rather than in a home. Piazzas are vibrant, outdoor hubs where tons of people gather, children play and tourists roam, creating a lively atmosphere. Similarly, many Italians do most of their shopping at a mercato, outdoor markets where vendors sell everything from food and wine to clothing and leather goods.  There's nothing like wandering a mercato, sampling the fare and interacting with other locals.
7. Maintain a "bella figura."
Bella figura literally translates to "beautiful figure" -- but it's more idiomatic than that. The idea of maintaining a bella figura is more like the idea of maintaining a good public image. Italians don't get drunk in public, eat while they walk or wear pajamas to the dinner table because it would have a negative impact on their image. Bella figura is more than just looking good, it's a way of life that emphasizes aesthetics and good behavior. 
Thanks to Lisa Miller and the Huffington Post.  She is absolutely right.

I think I would add a number 8 to this list, about getting around in Italy, which is very different that how we travel in the U.S.  After numerous trips to Italy, and renting a car, I have decided that there is a much easier, slower and less stressful way...the train, whenever possible.  Italian train service is excellent and easy to use almost anywhere, but it is particularly convenient when moving from city to city. Here is an example of an itinerary that relies on train travel, and may include side tours with a driver/guide if  desired. 
Example: Fly into Rome, take local train to hotel from airport. After stay in Rome take "super fast train" to Florence, where station is right in the heart of the city. Walk or taxi to hotel. After stay in Florence, try express train to Venice or Bologna, or Milan, etc. Fly home from Milan or train back to Rome or Florence. Staying in cities makes traveling easier and more comfortable. 
In any of these destinations cars and guides, or car rentals, can be arranged for day or overnight trips to the countryside for wine tasting, museums, historic ruins, events, et. al. The point is that the driver gets a break from constantly driving. The result is less stress, a more relaxing  journey, convenient train stations, available taxis, shuttles, and more. In other words, take the train and leave the driving to "them".

















Saturday, November 21, 2020


SICILY



Sicilian sunset


Nero d'Avola grapes
Sicily (Sicilia) is one of my favorite regions of Italy, but in all honesty, I am bias. This is my father's birthplace and still home to many members of my extended family. I had the pleasure of finding my roots and relatives after my father passed on my first of many trips to Italy. The trip was driven by wanting to meet the relatives and see the village and home where my father and his siblings were born and lived before emigrating to the USA.
My father's village, Santa Caterina Villarmosa, is in the Province of Caltanissetta, located in the heart of Sicily. It is very rural and very small. By the way, the village is not far form "Corleone".
Tracing and finding about our Italian heritage is educational, exciting and emotional. For me the experience brought be back to Italy many, many times. I felt very close to the country as a whole and very comfortable there. It felt liked I belonged there! To some degree it feels like a second home.
If you have an opportuinty to visit Italy, make time to see and connect to your roots. It is very rewarding. You will be welcomed with opened arms, not just by family members, if you are luck enough to locate some, but by the entire village, neighborhood, or city.

Those of you in the Dante Club and friends and family, who are planning a trip in the near future, take the time to gather whatever documentation you have and make time on the trip to check out your family's heritage.
I am including a few pictures of Sicily, in general, and my father's village.
Mt. Etna, near Catania

Santa Caterina Villarmosa

The Meditrranean Sea
My Father, Giuseppe Miccichè
Neighbors

Siracusa

Piemonte Region


 PIEMONTE REGION


The Piemonte  Region of Italy has some of the most beautiful countrysde vistas in Italy. It also features wonderful wines made from the Nebbiolo grape. We know them as Barolo, Barbera, Dolcetto and Barberesco. The City of Torino is a beautiful and vibrant city, full of young people due to the large university there. The River Po flows through the city and is home to many rowing competitions. It is an easy city for walking around and sightseeing. By the way, the cuisine is excellent especially in Autumn when the truffles and mushrooms are plentiful. By Italian measures of age, Torino is relatively modern, and well-designed. There are great views of the Alps here as well. Readers will recall that the 2006 Winter Olympics were hosted here.

From Torino it is a short drive to the rolling hills and vineyards of the Alba and Asti areas.

Alba is a wonderful small city in the heart of the Piemonte wine region, and it is a proud home of some of the best Italian truffles. Wonderful wines and Asti Spumante are produced here. Visit the town of Barolo and its spectacular interactive wine museum. Be sure to taste the Barolo while you are there. Alba is also home to Nutella, because of the major harvests of hazelnuts in the area.
In Alba you can arrange a truffle hunt experience with trained dogs, and watch them sniff and dig out the truffles. Alba is surrounded by beautiful scenery, featuring rolling hills filled with vineyards. There are beautiful vistas spanning miles. The area around Alba is easy to see by car because the villages are not too far apart. The city of Alba, itself, is comprised of a number of historical buildings, and it is designed for walking so everything can be enjoyed on foot. Don't miss having a pasta dish with fresh truffles and/or porcini mushrooms. From Alba, Asti is a short drive if you like sparkling wines. 
Also, a day trip to Genoa and  the Riviera is very doable.

Torino Municipal Building

Downtown Torino


 
Rolling Hills and Vineyards of Alba Area

Medieval Castle in Alba Wine Area



Piazza in Alba